Mera and Island Peak via Amphu Labtsa Pass

Besides Mount Everest & Annapurna, Mera and Island peak climbing is among the desired and most- opted high altitude mountaineering in Everest region.

A formidable mountain chain separates these peaks dividing remote Hongu valley from Khumbu valley. Although they vary climbing routes, these summits are possible in a single trek via Amphu Labtsa Pass. Climbing through this pass offers wonderful opportunity to climb these peaks in single trek.

The best season for this expeditions are Autumn and Spring. These are the best seasons for this expedition. The clear weather and moderate temperature offer spectacular views. During the spring, you can see the flora and fauna come to live in the lower regions. You can see beautiful and colorful blossoms of rhododendrons and other wildflowers of the region.

Nepal witnesses a wet summer. You can enjoy the glory of the rivers, lakes, waterfalls, streams of the region during this season. In winter, the temperature goes very low. You can also experience heavy to light snowfall in the region. These seasons are great if you are looking for a thrill and extra challenge. The trails also see less number of crowds. The overall cost is also lower during these seasons.

The major highlights of Mera Amphu Labtsa Peak Climbing is to enjoy the exciting flight to and from Lukla and explore the five sacred lakes – Panch Pokhari and Seto Pokhari. You can grab the fantastic panorama of five different highest mountain peaks of Mt. Everest, Lhotse, Kanchanjunga, Ama Dablam and Cho Oyu. Through this amazing journey, you get to divulge into the culture and lifestyle of the world famous ‘Sherpa’ people.

To climb these peaks is a vigorous journey in a rugged landscapes. The difficulty rely on various factors. You need to have prior mountaineering experience for this expedition. Along with this, you must have reasonable fitness level along with good mental health.

Mera Peak, Amphu Labtsa and Island Peak, all involve different kind of adventure.

Mera Peak has a slope of around 40 degrees of ice/snow. You will need to use basic mountaineering tools such as ice axe, fixed ropes, crampons for this section.

Amphu Labtsa Pass climbing is more technical than Mera Peak. You must be very careful during this point of the climb. You must have the knowledge on how to fix ropes and ice axe.

Although Mera Peak is higher, Island Peak is technically more demanding. You need to climb 45 degree snow covered slopes. The summit ridge is also completely exposed. You need to use fixed lines on all the exposed sections. Rope climbing skills are a must for this climb. You need to have proper mountaineering training for this.

The average duration of the entire Mera Amphu Labtsa Island Peak Climbing is 28 days. This includes the acclimatization days as well. This expedition is possible in shorter number of days. Yet, the less number of days risks the high possibility of high altitude sickness, physical and mental exhaustion. So it is better to choose duration of more than 26 days for this trip.

Mera Amphu Labtsa and Island Peak climbing is a climb for active mountaineers. It requires training and experience for a successful climb. You can take the mountaineering course before starting the actual journey.

Since it is a high altitude climbing above 5000m, always maintain your pace, do not rush. You ought to have enough acclimatization during the trek.The accommodations from Lukla will be simple, you will be accommodating in tea houses and camp in a snowy surrounding. From Mera Peak High Camp to Island Peak Base Camp, you will be sleeping in tents.

Unlike accomodations, your choice for meals and drinks narrow down once you start your journey. From Mera Peak High Camp to Island Base Camp, you will eat the food carried by our team.

During the expedition, the guide or assistant guide will direct you as well as help in climbing through ropes and ladders. They also give depth information about landscape, flora and fauna, local culture, lifestyle, tradition and local language.  You need to check and re check your climbing gears, clothing, hands, feet and head essentials, sleeping tools, rucksacks and travel bags, personal hygiene, medicals, eye glasses at all times in case of emergency. Make sure you are carrying enough not much and not less. Carry personal food and practical elements like lighter, repair tape, camera, bathing costumes, water bottles and other entertainment requirements like musical instruments, cards, games and mp3 players.

Make sure you have an insurance that covers treks and climbs to high altitude regions in foreign countries like Nepal. Make sure your insurance is up-to-date. Also your insurance should possess emergency evacuation and recovery services. Most trekking agencies do not accept you as a client if you don’t have proper insurance coverage. You need to get your insurance from your home country.

Your patience and an open, relaxed, positive and friendly attitude helps to climb on time while travelling. The trek, climb and a lot of the terrain in this part of the world may be very different.